The highest peak in Africa at almost 6000 meters altitude, the summit of Kilimanjaro is an absolute fantasy for hikers from all over the world. And for good reason: each year, nearly 40,000 people attempt the ascent, choosing from one of the 6 available routes leading up to the glacier.
Yet, the snows of Kilimanjaro are far from eternal. Studies show that if current climate conditions remain unchanged, the glaciers on the summit and slopes of Kilimanjaro are likely to disappear within the next few decades. (It is estimated that between 1912 and 2000, 82% of the glacier's surface disappeared).
Today we are sharing our experience of the Lemosho route, one of the most difficult routes that requires good physical condition, but which offers an unforgettable sporty ascent thanks to the spectacular landscapes, and which is ideally completed in one week. Follow the guide.
By Gonzague, Nicolas, Thomas and Alexis, passionate about the great outdoors and proud representatives of Chlorophylle.
Day 1: Departure from Moshi to Lemosho Gate
The start of the adventure begins in the town of Moshi in Tanzania, 1 hour away from Kilimandjaro airport. This is the starting point for all climbers taking this route.
Conveniently, last minute equipment rental shops are scattered around Moshi. We still recommend to have all your equipment before leaving Quebec as the quality of the equipment rented on site can be very random. (See equipment section).
Departure by minibus from Moshi for 2 hours of driving to Kilimandjaro National Park to start the trek at “Lemosho Gate”, located in the south-west of the mountain, at 1800 meters of altitude. In the bus we get to know our local guides (Danny and Amin) and the porters. Last preparations, registration at the park administration for entry formalities and we leave for 4 hours of walking.
The ascent is steady, crossing the "Rain Forest" where the vegetation is very dense up to 2900 m. It is not uncommon to cross blue monkeys among the trees and giant ferns along the way. We finally cover the last meters of altitude before arriving at our camp, "Mti Mkubwa Camp (Big Tree Camp)" at 2780m. The camp set up, we are served a hot tea with popcorn, a snack after effort that will accompany us throughout the stay.
Day 2: To "Shira II Camp", Above the Clouds
We wake up at 6am for breakfast, then start walking again at 7:30am. We leave the wet forest behind and discover new landscapes: fields of senecios, streams and waterfalls. We follow the path east to reach the Shira plateau in the early afternoon.
It is here that we can admire for the first time the goal of our journey: Kilimanjaro standing several kilometers away, majestic in a breathtaking landscape.
After about 5 hours of walking, we reach the "Shira II Camp" site, located in the heart of a vast rocky high altitude plain, above the clouds. Night falls quickly and the cold sets in, we set up our tent before taking refuge there for the night. Only Alexis stays awake a little longer to immortalize the starry sky.
Day 3: Climb to "Barranco Camp"
We get up around 7am and set out for a long day of walking. Gradually, the vegetation disappears and the glacier stands before us. We skirt around it, climbing up steep ridges, and reach the "Lava Tower" campsite (4600m) to have lunch and acclimatize to the high altitude.
After 5-6 hours of hiking, we arrive at the "Barranco Camp" site at the bottom of a valley. We have to go down a steep path to get there, and our legs are feeling the strain and fatigue is beginning to set in. Our effort is rewarded when we arrive and can relax and admire the sunset over the glacier. To top it all off, our guide brings us each a bucket of hot water for a quick wash. The shower is basic, but the result is extremely satisfying: a feeling of relaxation and purity after swallowing volcanic dust all day.
We go to bed content, knowing that the summit is not far away. To increase our chances of success on the final ascent, the day's itinerary has allowed us to acclimatize to the altitude.
Day 4: On the Way to Barafu, the Last Camp
After breakfast, we set off for the "Barafu Camp", the last camp before the summit of Kilimanjaro. We first descend into a valley and then climb up a cliff-side path where we often have to use our hands to climb.
It is at the lunch break at the "Karanga Camp" at 4300 meters that our guide, Danny (who has lost count of how many times he has climbed this mountain) tells us that he will not be able to go any higher. Recently operated on for appendicitis, the altitude has triggered unbearable pain that forces him to descend to the nearest hospital. This news is a blow to our morale.
Kilimanjaro has just brutally reminded us of the danger and effort that its ascent represents. Although accessible, with a success rate between 40 and 60%, we are never safe from complications that can end our adventure at any time. We warmly salute Danny and now all our hopes are pinned on the second guide of the pair, Amin.
The hike continues in a volcanic landscape marked by a vast field of stones and gravel. We take a long path on a ridge to reach the "Barafu Camp" site after 7 hours of walking.
Once settled in the camp, we contemplate the emerging peak. The path leading to the summit is visible from our location. We have dinner at 7pm, and go to bed early, as the night will be short. Indeed, the wake-up call is scheduled for midnight for the final ascent.
Day 5: Final Climb
The night was short and bad due to the stress, anticipation of the final climb and the effects of altitude on the body. In the dark, we turn on our headlamps to begin the toughest stage of the Kilimanjaro climb: the Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa.
It is 1am when we start to slowly climb a steep slope that takes our breath away at times: given the altitude and the 4 layers of clothing that protect us from the cold, each movement represents a huge effort. We move forward in a small group of 6, Nicolas, Alexis, Thomas, the assistant guide, Amin the guide and me, taking breaks every hour to catch our breath and gradually empty our stock of gels and energy bars.
After 5 hours of hiking, we finally reach the "Stella Point" at 5,800 meters altitude. The crater and the sky lit up by the first rays of the sun erase our fatigue. A few more efforts to reach the summit of "Uhuru Peak". After an hour of walking, we finally see the end! Arrival at the highest point of Africa at 5,895 meters altitude. Mission accomplished!
Upon arrival, we all have the same emotion and shed a few tears, so happy to have made it, with so much difficulty and pushing our own limits. The temperature at the summit not being very warm, we take some pictures and leave for the descent where we meet other climbers in their last efforts. Exchange of emotions and encouragement. Our descent to the "Barafu Camp" takes us on a small cloud, carried by our "high" of having reached the summit.
We arrive at the camp around 11am and take a short nap before lunch. This sleep time does us a lot of good. We then eat and leave to descend to Mweka Hut (3100 m), it will take us another 4 hours to walk. We arrive exhausted after this day of more than 5000 m of absolute altitude difference. Well deserved rest at the Mweka camp.
Day 6: Back to Civilization
After 3 hours of walking in the tropical forest, we finish our trek by descending to "Mweka Gate" (1640 m) and say goodbye to our wonderful team, before being transferred to the city of Arusha. We look forward to the joy of finding our hotel early in the afternoon, and finally being able to enjoy the delights of rest and well-deserved comfort after these 6 days of high altitude adventures.
In the distance, the snows of Kilimanjaro are fading away as our minibus races towards civilization. Our primary goal of the trip comes back to our minds. Followed by a pang in the heart. How much time is left before we can no longer see snow on the roof of Africa? What will Kilimanjaro evoke for future generations? We do not know. What is certain is that our memory of it will remain forever engraved.
Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro fact sheet:
- Altitude: 5,895 metres
- Distance: 68 kilometers, 4913m of D+
- Duration: between 5 and 8 days for the ascent, with 4 to 7 hours walking each day and 9 to 13 hours AR on the day of ascent and descent
Tip: be sure to acclimatize beforehand. Altitude, wind and temperatures as low as -20°C force many hikers to turn back.
Equipment:
- Down jacket
- Waterproof-breathable shell
- Thermal base layers
- Pair of gloves / Under-gloves
- Beanie
- Neck warmer
- Cap / Hat
- Hiking shoes
- 3 T-shirts
- 1 pair of hiking pants
- 1 pair of ski pants
- 1 pair of hiking shorts
- 4 pairs of hiking socks
- 4 pairs of shorts
Extend your pleasure ...
Why not extend your trip to Tanzania with a safari? After climbing the peaks of Kilimanjaro, explore African wildlife by exploring the vast plains of the Serengeti Park, famous for its immense herds of wildebeests, zebras and gazelles grazing in the tall grass, as well as lions, leopards, elephants and giraffes that live there. You will be able to observe wild animals up close in their natural habitat, in the midst of African parks.
You could also visit the Ngorongoro Park crater, one of the largest craters on the planet, where you can observe an incredible concentration of wild animals such as rhinos, buffaloes, hippos and hyenas moving freely in the vast plains. It is an opportunity to discover the culture of the local tribes, such as the Maasai, and to experience a unique stay in luxury tent camps in the heart of the savannah. It is the ideal way to extend your adventure on African soil and to discover the wild beauty of the great parks and tall grass of Tanzania.
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