The first Chlorophylle ambassador family
The highlight of the Roy and D'Amours family trip to Bolivia was undoubtedly the 4x4 excursion in the Gran Lipez to the highly anticipated Salar de Uyuni. They had reserved the excursion in advance with a local agency found on the internet, which allowed them to conclude their family escapade in Bolivia with an incredible adventure. Marie-Ève, the mother, describes these memorable few days.
Naive or carefree about the places they were going to visit, Marie-Ève thought they would only stay in the environment of the Salar Uyuni, an incredible salt desert. However, she was far from imagining that they would have a full Bolivian safari, with diverse animal species. The places they visited were also breathtaking: colorful lagoons, natural geysers, and deserts. These five days of traveling through paths and discovering natural treasures and raw landscapes have been an unforgettable experience for the family.
Day 1: The dangerous paths of the Grand Lipez
We are scheduled to meet our guide, Gilbeth, and Paméla, our dedicated cook, at the starting point, Refugio du Tupiza, at 8 am sharp. They will be our constant support and comfort on this challenging yet memorable adventure.
The journey began with some difficulty due to the lack of easy roads to navigate on a gravel path, through the mega-hills at 4000 meters and the edges of cliffs. It is important to note that since 2008, at least 26 people have lost their lives on the paths of the Grand Lipez. Therefore, it is crucial to work with a company that maintains and keeps their vehicles in order.
Despite the strong winds that were strong enough to knock over an ox, below freezing temperatures, and a very sick Emilio at our first stop, we did not lose our composure and continued on our way towards the giant sand dunes of Valle Del Encanto (The Enchanted City). The scenery of sand and rock sculptures was breathtakingly beautiful and refreshing. ❤️
We had the opportunity to go on a Bolivian safari and it was an amazing experience! During the safari, we saw numerous llamas, vicuñas, alpacas, ostriches, viscachas, which are large rabbits with long tails typical of the Andes, a variety of birds, condors, and foxes. Beber was ecstatic to have the chance to see all these animals. The landscapes were truly breathtaking, with endless multicolored mountains.
We climbed up to an altitude of 4700 meters, under a bright and striking sun. The wind was quite strong and I was worried that my children might fly away while climbing the mountain! We spent the night in Guadalupe, a very isolated village with only about 200 inhabitants. We were the 65th tourists to spend the night there and the first Canadians/Quebecers!
It was freezing cold and we slept "parent-child" in a single bed, fully dressed, in a room where the temperature was only 2 °C (while it was -20°C outside). The strong wind was seeping under the door and if we needed to use the toilet, we had to go outside of the room. Our observation of the day was that the excursion in Bolivia felt like survival mode!
Day 2: Mountains of all colors
Every morning, we experience the adaptation when we set off on our journey in the jeep. I sit between my two children in the backseat and feel my hands and armpits sweating. The fear of dying on such a perilous journey makes me anxious. It usually takes me about an hour to feel comfortable and confident. We travel through sharp turns, mountains that are over 5000 meters high, and precipices so deep that you can't see the bottom. Even writing about it now makes me uneasy. But despite all this, the journey is truly majestic.
We spend around six hours a day driving on the mythical paths of the Incas. The Spanish later widened these paths to exploit the mines and eventually used them for travel through the Altiplano, which means "high plain" in Spanish. The Altiplano is situated in the heart of the Andes mountain range.
We were amazed at the variety of colors and textures in the mountains, which included different types of vegetation, volcanic rocks, and sand. We came across small shrubs and green mounds called Yareta that have medicinal properties in their roots and sap.
We lost track of time exploring breathtaking landscapes and discovering hidden gems such as Incan ruins and Spanish villages that still stand today. We went hiking through the desert vegetation and had to cross numerous icy rivers (the water almost reaching our doors!). It was certainly an adventure!
Day 3: A host of favorites
In the protected reserve of Los Lipez, Quentana Chico, we spent our third night. It was the coldest one since we started our journey. Even though we had our sleeping bags rated for -5°C, suits, down jackets, and woolen socks, we felt the cold. We woke up to the sound of a rooster's crow. After breakfast with gloves on, as everyone was freezing, we were eager to get back in the 4x4 and turn up the heat. Our bodies were still adjusting to the cold weather, and we were tired and low on energy.
Despite these challenges, the beauty of nature made it all worthwhile. We witnessed a stunning sunrise with a herd of llamas, a frozen stream, and greenery. Later, we were awed by the Dali Desert and colorful mountains.
We had several memorable experiences during our trip. We started by visiting the Licancabur volcano, which is currently semi-dormant and stands at an altitude of 5960m. Following that, we took a dip in the Polques hot springs and left feeling refreshed. We then visited the Sol de Mañana geyser, where we saw several bubbling mud pools with temperatures reaching up to 500°C. Lastly, we checked out the Colorada Lagoon, a beautiful lake with a rust-colored hue, which is tinted by plankton and rich in minerals.
Day 4: A memorable sunset at Salar de Uyuni
I never thought I would experience a night worse than the previous ones, but now, on the fourth morning, I feel like a helpless mother trying to find ways to ease Emilio's suffering from various ailments. We have been constantly adapting, but have we reached our limit? We requested to modify our itinerary and end our excursion earlier. Luckily, our guide found a hotel with a room equipped with a small heater to help us combat the humidity. Later, he took us to witness the stunning sunset at Salar de Uyuni, and the natural beauty that lay before our eyes was beyond words. It was simply incredible, yet so true!
Day 5: the final of the expedition!
After experiencing the most beautiful and longest night of our adventure, we are now excited to explore the largest salt desert in the world, which spans nearly 11,000 km². As we journey through the Salar, we come across thousands of cacti that are unlike anything we have seen before. The sight is truly impressive! Driving across the Salar gives us the sensation of being on the edge of a white sea, with the horizon stretching out as far as the eye can see. The reflection of the sun creates a mirage effect, giving the illusion of a hallucination or rather, an illumination, as though it were the sea. The vastness of the landscape, its pure beauty, almost sends shivers down our spines. It is a truly breathtaking natural wonder!
While driving on the Salar, I suddenly remembered a time when I felt like I was walking on snow to go ice fishing. However, the texture was very dry and solid. It was so blinding that it was practically impossible to look at with the naked eye.
Currently, it's winter in Bolivia, which means it's the peak of winter, similar to the month of January for us. As a result, the Salar is dry. During summer, a thin layer of water covers the Salar, creating a dazzling mirror effect. The water in the ground evaporates and creates thousands of solid cells as far as the eye can see. They are so solid that even when a 4 x 4 vehicle passes over them, they remain intact.
It is good to know that the salt found on the surface is edible. Everyone has tasted it, and even the children have kept a little bit of it in their pockets as a souvenir from the trip.
Our recommendations
The standard duration for excursion days in the Grand Lipez is 3 days. However, we would recommend keeping 5 days for a more fulfilling adventure. We suggest taking some time to relax and unwind upon arriving at your accommodations, whether it be reading, playing cards, or simply resting. The cold weather can be quite challenging, so it's important to take breaks as needed.
In conclusion, our Grand Lipez expedition cost us $3000 Canadian, which included accommodation and food. We advise shopping around for agencies before booking your expedition.
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