Some vacations are about slowing down. Others are about deciding to hike nearly 60 kilometres in three days.
For several years, I had been wanting to take on the Défi des 5 sommets in Charlevoix. The idea kept coming back, but there was always something missing: the time, the right moment... and most importantly, the right partner. This year, everything finally lined up. I convinced my boyfriend, Sébastien, to join me on the adventure, and I'm excited to share the experience with you.
First, our goal wasn't to break any records. Quite the opposite. I wanted to fit the experience into three days, with as little driving and as few overnight stays as possible, while still leaving enough room to enjoy each mountain.
"I wanted it to be a challenge, yes, but never at the expense of enjoyment. The goal was to push myself, not spend three days suffering while staring at my watch."
We're both active in our everyday lives. Hiking, running, forest walks, and yoga are all part of my routine. Sébastien spends a lot of time road cycling, mountain biking, and hiking. In winter, we add snowshoeing to the mix. We were starting with a solid fitness base, but mountains always have a way of reminding you that not everything can be planned.
Day 1: Rain, Wind... and a Rainbow
Our first summit was the Sentier du Brûlé, a great way to get our legs moving before heading to Mont du Lac-des-Cygnes.
Even though it was still summer, the weather already felt like autumn: rain, wind, chilly temperatures... but also a few sunny breaks. Throughout the day, I kept adding and removing layers. Shorts and a tank top on the climbs, then leggings, a base layer, and a rain jacket whenever the temperature dropped.
My new merino wool layer quickly became an essential piece of gear. After getting hot during the climb, putting on a dry, warm layer at the summit made all the difference.
"It was hot while climbing, cold whenever we stopped, rainy, windy... we really experienced a little bit of everything."
And fittingly, the day ended with a beautiful rainbow at the top of Mont du Lac-des-Cygnes. Two summits completed, countless photos already taken, and the feeling that I had completely disconnected from everyday life.
Our Base Camp: L'Ours
For accommodation, we booked the L'Ours micro-cabin at Tanières MicroChalets Charlevoix at the last minute.
It was exactly the kind of hidden gem we love discovering. Nearly three walls of windows, birds singing in the morning, wild blueberries to add to my cereal, and a deck that was perfect for a few yoga poses while sipping a hot matcha. Even Romy, the resident dog, happened to match my new fall-winter fleece jacket perfectly.
The only small adventure was getting used to the composting toilet. "The real luxury of this trip was settling into the forest and completely forgetting what time it was."
It was the perfect little refuge between mountain days.
Day 2: The Ambitious Day
On paper, I already knew day two would be the most demanding.
First, Montagne à Liguori. Then, Le Massif de Charlevoix. Nearly 28 kilometers in a single day.
After reaching the first summit, I quickly realized I had made a classic mistake: I waited until I was hungry to eat. Breakfast had been enough to get me started, but I decided to wait until the summit before having a real snack. Bad decision. On a long hike with significant elevation gain, waiting until you're depleted before fueling your body means you're already behind. And I felt it. Liguori took much more energy than I expected. When we returned to the trailhead, a real question came to mind: did I actually want to head out for a second hike? For a few minutes, the answer was very close to no. "After Liguori, I was exhausted. For the first time during the trip, I genuinely wondered whether my idea of doing two mountains in one day was realistic." The solution? A good, filling lunch. And one essential detail: coffee.
We stopped at Café du Domaine à Liguori, a small café-bistro in Petite-Rivière-Saint-François that highlights local products and producers.
After that, my mindset changed. I told myself: "Let's go. And if I don't feel like continuing, I'll turn around." No pressure. No performance goals. Just try.
Le Massif: One Step at a Time
I was convinced our route at Le Massif would be shorter. To this day, I'm not entirely sure where I got my information wrong while planning. But once we were on the trail, combined with the heat and the fatigue from Liguori, I realized the second half of the day would require more determination than expected. This is where having the right hiking partner makes all the difference. Sébastien kept my mind occupied. He got me talking, made me laugh, and helped distract me from the challenge. We simply kept going. One step at a time.
Eventually, we reached the summit and took the traditional photo. Looking back, what stood out most wasn't completing both hikes. It was realizing that you can have an ambitious plan while still giving yourself permission to change it. I could have turned around. And that would have been perfectly okay, too.
Eating While Hiking: My Biggest Lesson
After the Liguori experience, I became much more disciplined about my snacks. In my backpack: nuts, fruit, protein bars, plenty of water, Greek yogurt, cereal, and seeds. The trip reminded me of a simple rule: When you're putting in a sustained effort, it's better to eat regularly than to wait until you're hungry or running low on energy. Because once you're out of fuel, the mountain suddenly feels much steeper.
Day 3: Changing Plans to Finish Strong
For our final day, we had originally planned to hike Montagne des Taillis. But vacations are also about being spontaneous. Mont des Morios is one of our favourite mountains, so we decided to return and see it in summer after previously experiencing it only in autumn. The trail is generally considered difficult. But this time, something felt different. It was our fifth summit. We knew it was the last one. So we savoured every moment.
During the climb, thunder rumbled in the distance. After dealing with rain on several summits already, we assumed this mountain would receive the same treatment. Instead, we watched the storm completely bypass the mountain. It felt almost surreal.
At the summit, we had the entire place to ourselves. I had gotten very warm during the climb, so it was time once again for a wardrobe change: long leggings, a dry layer, and merino wool. Then a few yoga poses to loosen up my legs. But most importantly, we slowed down. No checking the time. No thinking about the descent. Just looking around.
"Morios was the summit we enjoyed the most. It was the last one, the storm had passed us by, and we practically had the mountain to ourselves. I had absolutely no desire to hurry."
Next time, I'd love to spend the night there and watch the sunrise. I don't think this mountain has seen the last of us.
And Between the Mountains... Charlevoix
What I'll remember from these three days isn't found only in my AllTrails statistics. It's also all the small detours along the way.
Like stopping at Les Bonyeuses in Baie-Saint-Paul before heading home. A latte for the road from a bakery-café that showcases local products and producers.
The wild blueberries we picked while hiking.
The nearly empty summits because we travelled during the week. Looking at the map afterward and realizing the distance we had covered between Liguori and Le Massif.
The damp clothes drying at the cabin.
The photos. So many photos. By the end of the trip, my phone was completely full of them.
But most importantly, I spent three days with very little mental space left for anything else.
Walk. Eat. Change layers.
Watch the sky. Find the next trail marker.
Laugh with Sébastien. Keep going.
It's simple. And that's exactly why it feels so good.
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